I've been talking to some friends about the Colorado Rockies lately, and mentioned that I've been avoiding a return trip there for about 20 years now, because it brought back memories that I've been keeping buried. Memories of a happier time that now just make me feel sad, and old.
But that's just fucking stupid. Avoidant behavior is stupid. They're just mountains right? Fuck it, I'm going back. There are other places I travel that remind me of her, and I don't go all to pieces.
It was just about 30 years ago, a few months removed from my first trip to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area in Minnesota, that I stumbled across Point Beach State Forest up in Door County, Wisconsin.
On an autumn Sunday, my then girlfriend Mary (later my wife) and I decided we'd take a drive up Sheridan Rd. along the shore of Lake Michigan, and follow it north for as far as time would allow. I was living in Evanston at the time, tiny little $268 a month studio apartment not far from Northwestern's campus. Mary was an undergrad there, but to tell you the truth I don't think she spent one night in her dorm room.
Sundays were road trip days. We'd just get in the car and go. We'd drive around the midwest, and talk. Most of the time, we didn't even turn on the radio.
I loved those days. I guess I still do.
As you leave Evanston driving north on Sheridan, you pass through Chicago's fabled North Shore. That's where the late great John Hughes shot all of his 80s vintage teen angst movies, and home of Neil Page in
Planes, Trains, and Automobiles. Ever notice how familiar that neighborhood looks in
Home Alone? Same place.
Just beautiful. Long winding tree lined streets. Beautifully maintained homes. Lake Michigan is just to the east but at that point you rarely see it due to the fact that Sheridan Rd is a few blocks west of, and runs parallel to the shore. The side streets that go the water are where the real money lives.
It isn't until you get 30 miles or so north that the trees become more sparse that you understand how close you are to one of the Great Lakes. It might surprise people to know that most Chicagoans rarely see Lake Michigan.
As we worked our way north into Wisconsin, it became difficult to hug the shoreline. Most roadsigns were urging us to slide west a bit and grab I94, that great 16 lane slab of highway leading into the great Northwoods. Bah. Keep it. I prefer the little road.
Once we cleared Milwaukee and Kenosha and Racine and all those Supper Club towns, we finally got into what can be called the Kettle Moraine of Wisconsin. Lush and fertile are two words to describe Wisconsin, and they don't quite hit the mark. There's a peacefulness, a tranquility when driving through the dairyland that must be felt.
Winding north along Lake Michigan through Wisconsin is an absolute pleasure. The small towns you pass through really do have just the one "stop n go light." It's just amazing to see these beautiful old frame houses, built back in the 40s and 50s, with a front yard facing the 2 lane road, and a back yard that ends at Lake Michigan.
You pick those houses up and move them down there to the North Shore of Chicago and you're multiplying "value" by a factor of 20. $150K in Winnebago County translates to 3 million bucks in Glencoe, for the exact same fucking house.
I've often wondered who valued their home more, the guy up there or the guy down here. I'll bet they value their homes about the same.
As we got up there around the beginning of the thumb of Door County in northern Wisconsin, we came to a town called Manitowoc. Very historic as it turns out. They make actual submarines there, and ships and yachts and stuff, in addition to the porn and cheese.

It's a pretty big town as Wisconsin goes. Maybe 40,000 people. They're into something called "twinning" with their neighbor Kamogawa. Twinning combines their populations which then swells to well over 60,000. Maybe it feels better saying you're from the greater Manitowoc/Kamogawa area. Hey, what the fuck can I tell you? it's Wisconsin. We put up with them as neighbors because they're good people. Who cares if they don't get the Cheesehead joke?
It was as we were heading north from Manitowoc that we began thinking about turning around, but I felt pretty fresh so we decided to keep going for a bit longer. Mary was always great on long road trips. She understood that I don't do the passenger thing, never did, never will. Every trip we ever made, Colorado a dozen times, Florida a few, Wisconsin about a hundred, I drove every mile. She was great company, and at first, a great wife.
About 20 or 30 miles north of Manitowoc, we came to a wonderful little town called Two Rivers. Mayberry meets Milwaukee. Red Owl grocery store. Flynn's Mens store. Shneuder's Hardware. Fuckin' awesome. Fell in love with the place instantly, despite all the Green Bay Packers shit.
I noticed a sign on the east side of town, just past the Red Owl, that said
"Point Beach State Forest." We decided to check it out, and then turn for home. We were about 200 miles north of Chicago by then.
As we worked out way north on County Route O, that's right the capital letter O, it's Wisconsin, we came to a stand of pine trees flanking both sides of O, and a sign that welcomed us to the forest.
Point Beach State Forest was created in 1938 as part of the whole CCC, WPA thing that Roosevelt launched to get people back to work during The Great Depression.(Should we treat that depression as sort of the WWI equivalent of the depression to end all depressions? We need to be more careful when assigning the word "great" to shit.)
When they planted the red pine saplings at Point Beach State Forest back in the day, they were probably 18" tall. By the time Mary and I arrived in 1979, they were something closer to 80-100 feet tall.
Driving into any forest always gets me jazzed. I loves me some trees. Point Beach is an exceptional example. They planted these things so closely together that you wouldn't dream of just running into the forest. You'd be knocked on your ass in 3 strides. It's thick man. Dense. Heavily wooded. And it takes up a couple thousand acres.
We were absolutely enchanted as we drove through the campground, which was pretty much empty because of the season. The fall colors were everywhere despite the presence of all of the red pines, which were of course, still green.
We spent about an hour just looking around the park. I was into camping, and Mary was willing to give it a shot so I really was scouting for the following spring.
Describing the natural beauty of Point Beach State Forest is a very difficult task. It sits right on the shore of Lake Michigan, and so the eastern part is basically a big sand dune that runs about 3 miles north to south, or south to north if you're ...well you understand.
There's an old white lighthouse that towers over the beach, and at night its metronomic beam of light is powerful enough to penetrate the forest. Perhaps it's because the campsites are carved into little forest clearings, and it's so damned dark at night, that it's a relief to see some light.

Mary and I agreed that we'd return the following spring with our tent, and our bags, and our wine, and our weed, and our books.
Over the course of the next ten years, we camped at Point Beach State Forest at least 20 times. We checked out the Mississippi Palasades, Starved Rock, and a few other campgrounds, but Point Beach was the only place that really stayed with us after we'd packed up our gear headed for home.
Mary and I loved our trips to the forest along the lake. We'd drive up Friday afternoon, pitch our tent (Fuck Winnebagos), and get all situated at Site #121. That was our spot. We'd reserve it months in advance. It's perfect.
121 is the last site on the north end of the grounds. You can walk through the trees in the back, and after about 50 yards of thick forest you come to a clearing, and a small baseball diamond. I don't recall ever seeing anyone plating baseball in that field. Mainly it was a place for people to let their kids run around, and to let their dogs do what dogs do. Beyond the ball field is the entrance to one of Point Beach's several nature trails.
We used to spend hours in the forest walking these things. You can walk for 100 yards, and suddenly you might see a small plaque at the foot of a huge tree.
Ship Masts.
"If you place your cheek against this tree, and look straight up, you'll quickly see why the Red Pine was the tree of choice when shipwrights needed a straight log for the mast."
It's true. They can be 100 feet tall, but they're as straight as a pool cue.
After my divorce in the summer of 1990, I took a trip back to Point Beach, alone. That was rough. The quiet that we'd always sought out was still there. The lake breeze still wafted through the forest, and the birds still chirped and cheeped and darted around. The campsite looked the same. Felt different. Felt older. I didn't care so much for the quiet then.
I took a few years off from camping. And the longer I stayed away from Point Beach, the more I dreaded going back. But around 15 years ago, I got a sudden urge to go back. Don't ask my why, because I can't even begin to explain it. For some reason I wanted to be in that spot again. I wanted to see if my avoidant behavior had salved my wounds. I wanted to see if I'd still get as sad as the last time I'd gone. Alone.
It's true what they say I guess, about time. She passes. Not only was I not as saddened by returning to a special place I'd shared with someone in a former life, I wasn't saddened at all. I regretted taking those years off from camping. And, I've gone to Point Beach every year, save a couple, ever since.
I adjusted. Same gear, with some additions. I bring more wine now, and more books. Generally I'll leave the office on Friday afternoon, and have my campsite in order by dark. 121 of course. The main activity the first night is sitting in my Coleman folding chair, sipping wine, smoking a little, and staring straight up through the clearing in the trees. Stars man. Fuck-in stars.
Saturday morning is campfire breakfast, something I do with greater skill than any other living human. Beating around the campsite sipping coffee on cool sand and dewy grass is one seriously underrated activity. Saturday is hiking the trails. Saturday afternoon is listening to Sox games on the radio, and looking at red pine trees. Saturday evening is steak, corn, spuds, and chianti.
Sunday is more of the same, usually a walk along the beach, and by 3PM they're politely cruising by in the official Wisconsin Dept of Whatever car to remind us all that checkout is at 3PM.
Since it's Sunday, there is not a lot of chance that Monday's campers for 121 are waiting impatiently for me to vacate, because by Monday the park is near deserted. So usually, I can kick around until 4 or 5 when it's time to head back to Chicago and get ready for Monday at work. It's become a ritual again. It's my escape place.
So now I look forward with great anticipation to my trips to Point Beach, alone. Just booked another 2 weekends for next summer. 2nd week in June, and the 3rd week in July. Already looking forward to it. (Thank god for
Reserveamerica.com)
And so, I've decided to go back and see the Rocky Mountains again. I miss them. It's been too long.